LORD'S PRAYER LOG, Part 25:
Friday, February 25, 2000
0200 The wind has gone quite light (5-10 kts) but the seas are the flattest I have seen in any area of the Caribbean - exposed as it is here - to the full
width of the Atlantic. Without large waves the boat continues to make respectable progress in the light air toward English Harbor, Antigua where I shall clear
in to the Nation of Antigua and Barbuda. The slower speed (2-3 kts at present) actually suits me at the moment since I do not wish to make this next landfall
before daylight. In the meantime I shall sleep in 1 to 2 hour increments between
now and daylight.
0628 Sunrise.
0800 A morning rain shower bathes the boat and the wind picks up to 10-12 kts.
0900 Off to port about twenty NM I can see the volcanic island of Montserrat bathed in the morning sun. The top of the volcano reaches into and disappears
in the clouds. A ship between the island and me is hull-down over the horizon such that only its superstructure can be seen; this being white, it
stands out quite clearly against the darker background of the volcano. The following special
note is included in this year's edition of REED'S Nautical Almanac for the Caribbean 2000:
"The Soufriere Hills Volcano at the southern end of Montserrat came to life in 1995. It erupted continually until March 1998, when the upwelling of magma
stopped. However, the volcanic dome is still unstable and large pyroclastic flows can
occur without warning. The capital Plymouth and the villages on the flanks of the volcano have
been destroyed. The port facilities moved to Little Bay in the northwest corner of
the island. During the eruptions, 19 people lost their lives and about 8,000 left the
island. The remaining 4,500 inhabitants live in the northern part of
the island, which was not directly affected by the volcanic activity. The southern half of the island, including Plymouth, is still considered
dangerous and access is not allowed." The almanac goes on to say under the section entitled
MONSERRAT APPROACHES: "There are no longer any aids to navigation on the approaches to
Montserrat. Use extreme caution. Volcanic flow spread out from the southeastern coastline forming nearly
250 acres of new land, that has not been included on the most recent charts. Volcanic debris may affect charted water depths throughout the southern coastline.
The southern half of the island remains in an exclusion zone, off limits to all but Volcano Center scientists and police. Do not attempt to anchor or land
there."
0940 At 3.5 NM off the coast of Antigua, I am now able to see into both English and Falmouth Harbors. There is a forest of masts in both. The following is
quoted from Chris Doyle's Cruising Guide to the Leeward Islands: "In the old days it was hard to find secure ports that were easily
defensible, with immediate access to the trade winds, yet protected enough to careen a
ship and be safe in a hurricane. Falmouth and English Harbor sit side by side, almost
touching at the closest point, and they meet all these requirements. Their potential was recognized as early as 1723 and work was begun on the English
Harbor Dockyard. It was completed as it stands today in around 1745 and was
Britain's main naval station in the Lesser Antilles. Nelson was stationed here in 1784
The dockyard is now generally known as Nelson's Dockyard in deference to Britain's favorite hero. Today these
harbors are not only the yachting capital of Antigua, but a major Caribbean yachting center."
1030 I start the engine, stow the sails & the wind vane, and putter in
to English Harbor. I slip slowly through the harbor looking over the anchorage areas and
the many fine boats. There are a lot of boats here on the anchor with folks aboard. Water depth varies generally between about 25' and 12'. It is deep
right up to the shore in many places. At the water's edge in the upper arms the harbor is
ringed with mangrove trees, which have stilt-like roots and stems
forming dense thickets. There are quite a number of boats with their bows tied into
the mangroves; these boats also have multiple anchor lines radiating from their sterns in
to the harbor. This is the recommended way of securing a boat in advance of a hurricane here. Most of the boats that are secured in this way do not look
like they have been used recently.
1127 I notice a sign on a building announcing the presence of Customs Immigration and Port Authority. I find a clear area near that building and drop the
anchor..
1135 It begins to rain and so I postpone going ashore to clear in until it has stopped.
1250 It is still raining. It is a downpour. The boat is getting a good wash down..
1345 The rain stops and I go ashore. Customs et al have been moved to a different building. I find the right building and clear in for $79(EC). So far it
has been only the French who have not charged me a fee to clear in or out! I return to
the boat.
1500 I hoist the anchor aboard and putter over to the "Antigua Slipway
and Chandlery" for fuel and water. I top the tanks. Diesel fuel here is $6.65
(EC) per gallon. Chester, the attendant must have heard me gasp at the price because
he said, "that's an imperial gallon". And then he proceeds to grill me
over the name of my boat. He wants to know, "Who named that boat?" I answered,
"I did."
And then I add, "The Lord's Prayer is the last thing I shared with my wife as
she was dying of cancer." Chester's attitude softened and he asked, "Are
you a Christian?" I responded, "Oh yes!" He looked at me in a very strange
way and said, "Me too. In five years, you are the first Christian who has come here on a
boat." I was unable to respond because I cannot fathom how Chester could conclude
such a thing, but there is no question in my mind that he believes it. In reflecting
on this belief, I think I can understand his apparent initial distress over the use of the name!
1600 I motor around to Falmouth Harbor. Here I find the winter home of a host of
mega-yachts - the playthings of people so wealthy that it defies the imagination. Every one of these mega-yachts seems to have a full time crew onboard
polishing, cleaning, and doing whatever else such crews do in anticipation of the
owner's next arrival! Some of these boats must have cost in the hundreds of millions
of dollars. All of the yachts in this harbor are not in the mega-yacht category,
however. But of the ones tied to the piers, most are. There are
many more ordinary yachts anchored about the harbor - many with people onboard. In this
group there is a Deerfoot and several large Hinkleys; they are almost lost in the astonishing display of opulence.
1700 During a turn around the harbor, I am looking for a place to anchor within hailing distance of the shore. I want to be able to tell my brother Bob
where I will be anchored so that when he and Dawn arrive from the airport by taxi
on Sunday evening they will know where to look for the boat (it will be after dark) and will have a way of letting me know that they are here so that I will
come in with the dinghy and pick them up. I decide we can do that better in English
Harbor, so I return there.
1741 Lord's Prayer is anchored in English Harbor adjacent to the entrance to Nelson Dockyard and in front of the Dockyard Police Station.
1813 Sunset. I take the dinghy ashore to have a look around and to give Bob & Dawn a call. One thing I am looking for is a Laundromat; the one mentioned
in the guidebook at the head of the harbor doesn't seem to be here anymore. I'll
look again in the morning. I get cornered by a one legged beggar on a crutch. I give him my pocket change and wish him God's blessing. I find a card phone, but
my AT&T phone card doesn't work from Antigua either direct dial or with operator
assist. My Visa card works though. No one is home at Bob & Dawn's so I leave
a message. I check the menus at several restaurants in the area. They are pricey.
I head back aboard, lift the dinghy on the halyard, and pull out some
leftovers.
2200 The boat is lying at anchor very still. This is the first time I have not felt any movement since before leaving Cambridge Creek over a month ago.
This is a very sheltered place - English Harbor.
END OF LORD'S PRAYER LOG, Part 25
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